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Daytona Beach News-Journal
Solid Gold Dog Food: Is It Worth It?
by Miss Lily Bug
Is Solid Gold Dog Food really good for your dog? My answer is yes. The majority of the dog food on the shelves at your local store is killing your dog.
The ingredients of the dog food at these stores are disgusting. Among them are euthanized dogs, rotten meat, feces, and maggots. Los Angeles has been known to ship their euthanized dogs to dog food companies. The drug used to euthanize dogs is not broken down in the manufacturing process, therefore your dog is slowly ingesting minute amounts of it.
A major ingredient in these dog foods is corn. Dogs cannot digest corn in any form, yet it continues to be a major ingredient. Why are these companies making dog food for our friends when they contain such horrible things? To make money. Plain and simple. Most people aren't educated to what these ingredients are. My plan is to educate as many people as I can, and show them which brands are best. Solid Gold Dog Food is one of these brands.
Solid Gold Dog Food is all natural, and was not involved in the dog food recalls. Solid Gold Dog Food puts ingredients such as:
Bison, salmon meal, cracked pearled barley, millet, brown rice, rice bran, tomato pomace, canola oil, flaxseed, blueberries, cranberries, carrots, and broccoli- These are all in a Solid Gold Dog Food product.
Have you checked your dog food bag yet? Does it contain any of these ingredients at the top of the ingredient list? Probably not.
I am a parent to 2 beautiful little girls, I am also a parent to 2 boxers. I wouldn't dream of feeding crap to any of them. I feed Solid Gold Dog Food to my boxers, and believe it or not, it is made out of human grade ingredients.
If you would like more information about Solid Gold Dog Food, please click here!
Tips for Introducing Two Cats
By Kathy Burns-Millyard
Adding a new member to your feline family is usually more exciting for you than your current cat. Even though they are solitary by nature, most cats eventually learn to accept or at least tolerate newcomers. Because they are very territorial, the way you go about introducing the new cat to your existing cat can mean the difference between success or "cat-astrophe."
The introduction process can take as little as 10-12 days for kittens and very young cats, to as long as 12 weeks for older cats. It all depends on each cat's personality. Be sure to give your "first" cat plenty of attention. This will help him feel secure that he is not in competition for your affection.
Confine your new cat to a "safe" room until the introduction process is complete. This should be a small room, such as a bathroom or small bedroom that your current cat rarely visits. Furnish it with a bed, scratching post, food, water and litter box.
In the beginning, your first cat may hiss and yowl at the cat on the other side of the door. Just ignore him and walk away. Never punish him for vocalizing aggressively, it will only cause trouble between the two cats. Be sure to praise and pet your first cat when he acts calmly when near the new cat's room.
After a few days, take a rag or washcloth and rub it over your new cat as you pet and play with her. Use a different rag to do the same thing with your first cat. At feeding time, put each cat's scented rag under the other cat's bowl. This will help them associate the other cat's scent with something positive-food. Lots of little feedings each day will help them get used to the smell more quickly. Be sure to renew the scent on the rags each day.
Next, you can feed them in closer proximity. Keep your new cat in her "safe" room with the door firmly closed, and place each cat's dish on their side of the door. Be sure to feed them at the same time. Once they both eat with no growling or hissing, you can move to the next level of the introduction.
Close your first cat in a room he likes to frequent, making sure he has water, some favorite food and a litter box. Let your new cat out to explore the house. After a few hours, put her back in her room and let your first cat out. He will probably hiss and fuss when he smells another cat's scent in HIS territory. Again, be patient and praise him when he acts calmly. Repeat this activity at least once a day until both cats seem comfortable.
Before you let the cats have full access to one another, let them come face to face in a safe situation. Use two hard plastic doorstops to jam the door to the new cat's room open a mere 2-3 inches. Check that the door can't be pushed open any further, and that neither cat can get its head through the opening. The object is to give them a chance to swat paws at one another and even go nose to nose without the opportunity for full body contact. Feed each cat on their respective side of the door. Once they no longer hiss or growl at one another, you can try playing with both of them in the same room.
About the Author:
Kathy Burns-Millyard. This article is provided courtesy of MyPetAnimals.com - http://www.mypetanimals.com - a large and growing pet website featuring articles, tips, advice and shopping for popular pet supplies, toys and accessories. This article may be freely published on any website, as long as the author, copyright, website address and link, and this notice are left intact.
Keeping Pets Cool
by Autonational Rescue
Concerned at the rising incidences of dogs locked in parked cars, Ronan Hart of car breakdown service Autonational Rescue, says: "Common sense tells most people that leaving their pet inside a parked vehicle, particularly on a hot day, is dangerous.
"But most people just don't realise that the temperature can soar in just a few minutes causing distress to the animal and, in some cases, even death.
"The temperature inside the car might not seem excessive when you first stop but inside a stationary car it can rapidly increase to double the outside temperature within six to ten minutes.
"Thankfully it's the type of rescue we're rarely called on to make. Other emergency services or the public themselves are normally first on the scene, but countless dogs die every year after their owners leave them in parked cars for long or short periods of time, thinking they're safe but not realising the dangers.
"Leaving your dog in a parked car even for a few minutes can have tragic results," added Ronan, Autonational's marketing manager.
Studies have shown that on an 85-degree Fahrenheit day (29oC) for example, the temperature inside a car, even with the windows opened slightly can reach 102 degrees (nearly 39oC) within ten minutes.
After thirty minutes, pets are in danger of heat stroke. Even on hot and humid days, the temperature in a car parked in direct sunlight can quickly become lethal.
The advice is simple. Never leave your dog in a parked car on a warm day, even for a few minutes.
Leaving the window open a few inches, parking in the shade, or even leaving the dog a bowl of water is not the answer. And owners who put their pets at risk are liable to prosecution.
Pets, more so than humans, are susceptible to overheating. Dogs, for example, are designed to conserve heat, and the sweat glands on their nose and the pads are inadequate for cooling during hot days.
Panting and drinking water helps cool them, but if they only have overheated air to breathe, dogs can quickly suffer brain and organ damage - especially the short-nosed breeds, like pugs and bulldogs, young pets, older dogs or pets with weight, respiratory, heart or other health problems.
About the Author:
Autonational Rescue offers nationwide car breakdown cover in the UK with a protected no claims bonus. It has been running since 1992 and offers very competitive prices with various different levels of cover available.
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