Pet Advice - Pet News - Pet Stories

Ten Steps for Grooming a Dog
by Debbie J Gretsch

Grooming a dog is something that every dog owner has to do. Dogs get dirty just like every one else and they have to be cleaned and kept healthy. Grooming a dog is hard work. You have to do so many things and make sure that you do them right. Here are some easy ways to groom your dog and ten steps for doing it.

First step, put your dog on a leash. Chances are your dog will want to get away, so put him on a different leash. While you are changing his leash, put him in a collar that won't bleed and that is good when it gets wet. You should not put him in his normal collar because if that gets wet and you leave it on him, it will cause sore spots.

Second step, brush your dog's teeth. Use a special toothbrush and toothpaste for dogs. They can't use normal toothpaste because it can be dangerous to them.

Third step, clean your dog's eyes. Dog's get gunk in their eyes, especially the older they get. Get rid of anything on the sides of your dog's eyes. Use a cleaning solution that you buy at a pet store if you need something besides soap and water.

Fourth step, clean your dog's ears. Dog's get wax build ups in their ears just like humans do. Don't use a q-tip but use cotton swabs. A q-tip may go in too far and harm your dog. Use a special cleaning solution that you again get at the pet store. You need to buy the cleaning solutions to help your dog and really clean them.

Fifth step, cut your dog's nails. Dog nails grow fast just like human nails do. You don't want to end up with a dog that has an infection in their nails. Cut just a little bit off. Never cut into the pink part of the nail. Just like your nails, that will hurt a lot.

Sixth step, brush your dog's hair. Get out any knots by starting at the bottom and slowly going to the top. Use a thicker comb and then go over it again with a finer comb to get out any smaller knots the first one missed.

Seventh step, use a rake to get out any really hard knots and go over your dogs hair with it. You want to get out any loose hair or any dirt that is in your dog's coat.

Eighth step, trim your dog's hair. You should probably get him wet and then start cutting. You don't want to try and cut it when his hair is dry and harder to manage. Make sure you only cut off small lengths. Brush your dog's hair again.

Ninth step, give your dog a bath. Use only dog shampoo as human shampoo could really hurt him. Be gentle around his eyes and genitals because they are very sensitive to the shampoo.

Tenth step, give your dog a treat. He deserves it after a hard day of being groomed and made to do things he probably didn't want to do.

About the Author
Debbie Gretsch is a work-at-home writer and mom. She lives in San Diego with two dogs, two cats, two kids and a husband. Her interests are parenting, education, pets and relationships. Get more information regarding dog grooming tips.


PetStreetMall - Quality Products at Low Prices!


Presidential Dog Names
by Source: White House Pets

From George Washington to George Bush, there has often been a dog--or two, or three, or ten--keeping watch over the First Family and making messes on the White House lawn. Find out which presidents got creative with their dog names (Sweetlips, King Tut), who went with the old standbys (Buddy and Spot), who got patriotic (Liberty), and who was, er, very utilitarian (Him and Her). http://dogtime.com/articles/614?breaks=2743_5726_8167&slug=true&title=presidential-dog-names
George Washington: Drunkard, hound Mopsey, hound Taster, hound Cloe, hound Tipsy, hound Tipler, hound Forester, hound Captain, hound Lady Rover, hound Vulcan, hound Sweetlips, hound Searcher, hound

John Adams: [Continued] Juno, breed unknown Satan, breed unknown

John Tyler: Le Beau, Greyhound

James Buchanan: Lara, Newfoundland

Ulysses Grant: Faithful, Newfoundland

Rutherford Hayes: Hector, German Shepherd Dog Nellie, German Shepherd Dog Duke, spaniel

James Garfield: Veto, breed unknown

Theodore Roosevelt: Pete, Bull Terrier Sailor Boy, Chesapeake Retriever Jack, terrier Skip, mutt Manchu, spaniel

Warren Harding: Laddie Boy, Airedale Terrier Old Boy, English Bulldog

Calvin Coolidge: Peter Pan, terrier Paul Pry (originally Laddie Buck), Airedale Terrier Rob Roy (originally Oshkosh), Collie Calamity Jane, Shetland Sheepdog Tiny Tim, Chow Chow Blackberry, Chow Chow Ruby Rough, Collie Boston Beans, Bulldog King Kole, breed unknown Bessie, Collie Palo Alto, bird dog

Herbert Hoover: King Tut, breed unknown Pat, breed unknown Big Ben, Fox Terrier Sonnie, Fox Terrier Glen, Collie Yukon, American Eskimo Dog Patrick, wolfhoundEaglehurst Gillette, setter Weejie, Elkhound

Franklin Delano Roosevelt: Major, German Shepherd Dog Meggie, Scottish Terrier Winks, Llewellyn Setter (a kind of English Setter) Tiny, Old English Sheepdog President, Great Dane Fa la, Scottish Terrier Manchu, Pekingese [Continued]

Blaze, Mastiff

Harry Truman: Mike, Irish Setter Feller, Cocker Spaniel

Dwight D. Eisenhower: Heidi, Weimaraner

John F Kennedy: Charlie, Welsh Terrier Pushinka (a gift to Caroline Kennedy from Nikita Khrushchev) Shannon, English Cocker Spaniel Wolf, Irish Wolfhound Clipper, German Shepherd Dog Butterfly (Pushinka and Charlie's pup) White Tips (Pushinka and Charlie's pup) Blackie (Pushinka and Charlie's pup) Streaker (Pushinka and Charlie's pup)

Lyndon B. Johnson: Beagle, Beagle Little Beagle, Beagle Him, Beagle Her, Beagle Blanco, Collie Yuki, mutt

Richard Nixon: Checkers, spaniel Vicky, Poodle Pasha, terrier King Timahoe, Irish Setter

Gerald Ford: Liberty, Golden Retriever

Jimmy Carter: Grits, mutt

Ronald Reagan: Lucky, Bouvier des Flandres Rex, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

George H.W. Bush: Millie, English Springer Spaniel Ranger, one of Millie's puppies

Bill Clinton: Buddy, Labrador Retriever

George W. Bush: Barney, Scottish Terrier Spot, English Springer Spaniel and one of Millie's puppies Mss Beazley, Scottish Terrier

About the Author
From George Washington to George Bush, there has often been a dog--or two, or three, or ten--keeping watch over the First Family and making messes on the White House lawn.


Shop JakesDogHouse.com


How to Give a Cat a Pill
by Max Young

If you have ever attempted to get a small child to swallow a pill, you know how hard it can be. Cats are no better at accepting pills - they generally will not open their mouths for any price, but different than children, cats can fight back with their claws and teeth. So, before you try getting your cat to swallow a pill, it is significant to know a few things about it.
There are lots of different hints put forth by folks on this matter, but many of them--such as attempting to hold a cat down and forcing him to swallow a pill--usually only result in wasted pills and lots of scratches. Other people might suggest crushing the pill, mixing it with butter or spreadable cheese and then spreading this on your cat's fur. The idea is that your cat will lick it off, but there are more adept ways to give your cat medicinal drug!

Here's the easiest way to get your cat to swallow a pill:

From behind, gently grasp your cat's maxilars joint with your thumb and index finger. It is easiest if you pick up your cat while he's sitting up off the ground someplace. Gently draw your cat's head back, elevating the mouth. Cats do not like this, but they won't oppose it. Implement a small amount of pressure to the jaws with your fingers.

Slip a finger between the cat's front teeth and press down on the bottom jaw. Do not be concerned about being bitten; a cat doesn't have any power when its head is bent back. As the cat's mouth is open, take the pill (which you have had in your free hand the whole time) and put it as far back in the cat's mouth as you can as promptly as you are able to. Try to avoid as much contact with the tongue as possible, so the cat doesn't sample the nasty medicine and spit it out.

Allow the cat's mouth to shut and hold him until he swallows, gently rubbing his neck. Then, let the cat go and keep an eye on him for a couple of seconds. A few cats will make believe to swallow and then spit out the pill when you're not looking. Whenever your cat licks his mouth, it is a good indication that he really swallowed.

Accompany the pill with a delicious treat. That way, your cat will connect the pill ritual with something yummy. Enforcing a feeding schedule will help with all your moments of discomfort with your cat.

If you're free-feeding your cat (leaving food out at all times for him to eat as and when he feels like it), stop doing this. Enforcing a feeding schedule has two main benefits: it increases the reward-value of food treats as training devices, and also introduces a semblance of routine into your cat's life (which, believe it or not, most cats actually prefer.)

About the Author
Max Young is an information researcher whom presents working information to be used for every day experiences. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, click now on the following link.

http://www.squidoo.com/how-to-give-a-cat-a-pill

PetSmart


The Life of a Dog
by Kristin Gabriel

We want our dogs to live as long as possible, but the truth is, certain dog breeds live longer than others. If you are in the market for a new pet, following is some information that could help in this decision making process.
From breed to breed, the age of a dog varies, but the average life span of the North American or European dog is about 12 years of age.8 years. Over the past 100 years there has been an increase in life span thanks to better medical care, and healthier foods.

Larger dogs like the Saint Bernard live shorter lives than smaller dogs because physically, the bodies of larger dogs are more stressed than the bodies of smaller dogs. Dogs that are medium sized can live to be between 11 to 14, while very large breed dogs live only 8 to 12 years. some small dogs can live up to 22 years of age, but the average is from 14 to 22.

The life expectancy of any particular dog is also determined by the stresses in its everyday life - just like humans. of course, this includes physical and psychological stresses, what the dog eats and how well you take care of your dog.

While a Labrador Retriever may live an average of 12.6 years, some people report their Labs having lived much longer. The same thing goes for smaller breeds such as a Lhasa Apso or a Miniature Poodle, whose life expectancy is about 14.8 years of age. Yet there are some poodles that live to be more than 18 years old.

Have you ever tried to add up how old your dog is in "human' years? In reality, the seven years to one human year is a myth, or a dog that is 20 would be 140 years old. Even basing the lifespan on 100 years, a small dog's age would roughly be five years to every human year, so five times 20 would be 100 years. There is no one formula for a dog to human age conversion that has ever been scientifically analyzed.

Typically, a one year old puppy that has reached full growth is usually sexually mature, although it might still need to fill out, just like human teenagers. A two year old dog is equal to about another 3 to 8 years in terms of mental and physical maturity, while each year thereafter is equal to around four or five years in human terms.

As a dog gets on in years, it is critical to take good care of the animal, and make it comfortable as it approaches its last days. You will know when your dog stops eating, its breathing becomes difficult, and other pets begin to snap at it or ignore the animal. The time may have come to plan a pet memorial service and think about taking it to the vet to be put down and out of its pain.

As sad as it may be, when your dog dies, you can help your dog live forever in the hearts of your family by conducting a pet memorial. Purchasing a dog urn, to put cremains in is one way to remember your friend. Pet urns are each as unique as your pet, and can fit nicely into a home, or be used in an ash spreading ceremony.

Remember that your pet will always live long in the memories of you and those who truely loved it.

About the Author
Kristin Gabriel is a professional writer based in Los Angeles, CA who works with Peternity.com, a place where people honor their pets for eternity. Peternity provides custom products including grave markers, pet urns, garden statue pet memorials, pet memorial headstones, pet keepsake memorials, pet portraits, burial boxes, custom engraved glasswork, and other pet memorials. Call 877-PET-PEACE or go to http://www.peternity.com



A Guide to Rabbit Cage
by Pet Rabbit Lovers

You will need a rabbit cage if you intent to keep your pet rabbits indoor. The rabbit cage functions more than just a housing for your pet rabbits. Your pet rabbits should treat the cage as a "retreat" or "safe haven" for your pet rabbits. This is all the more important if you are keeping your pet rabbits indoor and would want to toilet-train them.

A rabbit cage also acts as an educational tool for your pet rabbits. Cage time is not necessary isolation or imprisonment time. Cage time can be training time for your pet rabbits. You pet rabbits can learn a lot of things in a cage that he likes. He can learn about using litter boxes, what may be chew and have a safe space at times when you can't bunny-sit him.

The size of your rabbit cage should be at least 4 times of your rabbit's stretched out length. Your bunny rabbit will grows larger in size as they become adults. Some rabbit breeds are larger than the others and this should be taken into consideration in deciding the size of your rabbit cage. The cage should also be high enough to enable your rabbit to stand upright.

There are plenty of varieties available for the rabbit cage. You can also build your own rabbit cage. If you intend to build your own rabbit cage, consider using welded wire. Wire cages are more durable than wooden cages and therefore can be more economical in the long run. As wire rabbit cages are easier to clean and disinfect, it also reduces the chances of diseases for your pet rabbits.

The door of the rabbit cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is the best choice to allow your pet rabbits to get in and out of the cage on their own. For many rabbits, allowing your pet rabbits to get in or out of the cage on their own can have tremendous positive effect on their temperament!

You can build your own pet rabbit cage with the following materials:

Floor: 1 piece of 36 x 78 in. wire
Top: 1 piece of 30 x 72 in. wire or 1 piece of 48 x 72 in. wire for Quonset design
Sides: 2 pieces of 15 x 72 in. wire
Ends: 2 pieces of 15 x 30 in. wire or 2 pieces of 18 x 30 in. wire for Quonset design
Partition: 1 piece of 18 x 30 in. wire or 1 piece of 21 x 30 in. wire for Quonset design
Doors: 2 pieces of 16 x 18 in. wire or 2 pieces of 18 x 20 in. wire for Quonset design
Miscellaneous: 2 pieces of 72-in. sections of 5/16 in. steel rod for floor and 2 door latches for the conventional design; 3 pieces of No. 12 galvanised wire, 2 pieces of 72-in. sections of 5/16 in. steel rod for floor and 2 door latches for the Quonset design.
Fasteners: 100 small hen-cage clips, 25 large hen-cage clips, 30 no. 101 hog rings, 2 pieces of 24-in. length, No. 9 galvanized wire

Step 1: Lay out the floor by removing a 3 x 3-inch section from each corner of the flooring. Then, bend up a 3-inch section along each side of the floor to prevent young bunnies from falling off the cage. Use hog rings to attach the steel rods to the front and rear edges of the floor.

Step 2: The partition and ends of the quotient cage are shaped using a pattern. Allow a 5/8 inch section of the wires to extend beyond the pattern. Bend these wires around a No. 12 edging wire. Position the ends and partition on the floor and fasten them with small hen-cage clips.

Step 3: Attach the bent-up floorings to the front and back sides of the conventional cages. Fasten sides of the partition and ends. Do not fasten the partition to flooring at the area where the door will be attached.

Step 4: Lay the top of the Quonset cages over the floor, ends, and partition. Fasten to the front and rear of the flooring, using small hen-cage clips spaced every 5 inches. The enter partition shall then be raised and fasten to the top. Repeat for each end section.

Step 5: Cut the door openings in the front side of each cage. Each opening should be 2 inches smaller than the doors in height and width. File all sharp protruding wires. Attach the doors, using large hen-cage clips as hinges. Attach the No. 9 wire around the door openings, using the large-sized clips. Install the door latch to complete the cage.

The cages can be suspended from an overhead support, using six strands of No. 12 galvanized wire. Attach a wire to each corner of the individual cages for proper support.

If you intend to buy your rabbit cage, in addition to the suggestions give above, you may want to buy those with a pull-out tray at the bottom. The pull-out tray is easier to clean and to maintain. If the rabbit cage is on legs, consider adding a ramp to the entrance to make it easier for your rabbits to get in and out of the cage on their own. Avoid using wire ramp though, as your pet rabbit's tiny legs may get caught between the wires.

If there is sufficient height within the rabbit cage, you may add some shelves between the floor of the cage and the top. The shelves may be used for resting, lookout or for exercise for your rabbits.


About the Author
To know more about Rabbit Cage, visit My Pet Rabbits at http://www.mypetrabbits.com

EZ Shop Quick Links!

No comments: