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by Gerald McNicholl
To get your puppy off to a good start, schedule a veterinary check-up within the first 48 hours of bringing it home. You can then get a clean bill of health, a schedule for future vaccinations and spay/neuter surgeries and advice on food, training, parasite preventatives and trainer recommendations.
What to consider before getting a puppy?
* Investigate the breeds and mixes. * Ensure you are familiar with the breed's adult size & personality traits. * Estimate costs of regular veterinary care, flea/tick and heartworm prevention. * Estimate costs of grooming, food and how it fits into your lifestyle or family life.
How to keep your puppy safe?
* Create a safe environment at your home. A puppy, just like a human baby, finds the tiniest nooks and crannies to get into and they often get into trouble playing with computer cables, electric cords, cleaning products, pantyhose, etc. Hide or contain wires and cables, put baby locks on low cabinets (little paws and noses can pry doors open), pick up stray strings, needles, paperclips, shoelaces, and move valuables, books and breakables to new heights. * Crate - search for one with enough room for your puppy to turn around, lie down and sleep but not too spacious as this leaves room for it to eliminate in areas where it doesn't sleep. * Until your puppy has finished all rounds of immunisation, he should not mix with a lot of strange dogs or be where there is a high volume of other dogs walking, as he needs to be fully protected before venturing in public places.
What are the handy things you need to have to care for a puppy?
* Use non-tipping metal food and water dishes - this helps keep the dishes from sliding.
* Buy some stain and odour neutralizer - your puppy will always be drawn to areas where "accidents" took place, a good neutralizer will eliminate odours from its urine or stool.
* Buy a brush, nail clipper and a comb if your puppy will eventually grow into a dog with a medium to long coat.
* Get an adjustable collar, identification tag and a six-foot nylon or leather leash with a small clip. Try to avoid chain collars or leashes.
How to house-train (potty-train) your puppy?
* House-training a puppy is not difficult if you're consistent and stick to a schedule. You will probably be feeding three times a day. First thing in the morning, take the puppy out of its crate and quickly take it outside to where you'd like it to eliminate. Be patient, and as soon as your puppy starts to eliminate, CALMLY praise it with "Good dog" (or whatever term you'd like to use). When your puppy has finished all its business, take a few minutes to play or cuddle it. What you want to teach your puppy is the sooner it eliminates, the sooner it gets to play with you. When playtime is over, bring it inside, feed your puppy breakfast and let it have water. In about 15-20 minutes, take it outside again and repeat the routine. Once back inside, if you have time to monitor your puppy, you may let it explore its surroundings. After that, put it back in its crate.
* Never leave your puppy in the crate for more than its limit in controlling its bladder. Usually a puppy can hold it for as many hours as its age in months. For example, a 2-month old puppy can stay in the crate for no more than 2 hours, as long as it has eliminated before being crated. Repeat the feeding, elimination, play routine at lunch and dinner, then no more water or food 2 hours before bedtime. If the weather is very warm, a few ice cubes in your puppy's water bowl will quench its thirst but not stimulate its bladder like water will. Generally, at 8 weeks to 3 months, your puppy will have developed better bladder and bowel control and is capable of sleeping through the night. But remember to take your puppy out first thing in the morning!
* When your puppy pees on one spot, he tends to go back to exactly the same place over and over because your puppy recognises the smell. Therefore take your puppy to the same spot every time. If your puppy does it in the right spot, lavish him with lots of praises! Use your happy voice, your puppy will soon know he did it right and will want to do it right the next time.
* If your puppy had an accident somewhere inside the house, make sure you clean the floor or the carpet thoroughly to neutralise the smell. A good quality pet odour remover should do the trick.
* Each time you want your puppy to defecate or urinate, teach you puppy a specific word by repeating the same word many times, for example "go poop", "go potty". By repeating the same words each time, it will become another command for your puppy and he will be able to do it when you mention the command.
* Ideally you will have a dog door installed so that your puppy can be trained to go outside when it needs to eliminate. If this is not practical, keep an eye on your puppy, try to observe how your puppy normally acts before he pees, and take him outside as soon as you see the signs. You can also teach your puppy to ask for the door, but that might take some time.
* Establish a routine - for example, after a nap or before play time, take your puppy outside to eliminate.
What are the development stages and behaviours you can expect from a puppy to a dog?
* The Juvenile Stage: 3 to 4 Months
The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it's during this time your puppy behaves a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he's only recently learned and tries to exert his new-found independence with its "I don't have to listen to you" attitude!
You will need to apply firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training at this stage. Your puppy might even start biting you, play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp "No!" or "No biting!" command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him should take care of this problem.
When you bond with your puppy, avoid games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance - especially if he wins and wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of control. As your puppy's strength grows, he will want to play-fight to see who is stronger - even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it's alright to fight with you but this is NOT the message you want to send out!
* The Brat Stage: 4 to 6 Months
Your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and wilfulness during the Brat Stage which begins at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months. You may observe a decline in his urge to please you - expect to see more "testing the limits" type behaviours. During this time he'll be going through a teething cycle and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.
Your puppy may try to assert his new "dominance" over other family members, especially children. It is common for puppies at this age to ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog's response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result - so don't take the chance. Continue his obedience and basic commands training, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you're in a confined area.
Your puppy will now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought on by his growing sexual maturity and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven't already, you should have your puppy neutered (or spayed if you have a female) during this time.
* The Young Adult Stage: 6 to 18 Months
From 6 months to approximately 18 months, the Young Adulthood stage takes place and is usually a stabilising time in your puppy's life. He's young, he's exuberant, he's bursting with energy and yet he's learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog. Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time, just because he's approaching his full growth and may look like an adult dog, he's not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect.
Slowly increase the scope of activities and training for your dog. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals - allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.
Horse in My Backyard?
by Lydia V Kelly
Is keeping a horse at home right for you?
As more people move to the outskirts of town, many consider keeping horses at home. With a country home and a few acres of land childhood dreams of having a horse of their own no longer seem unattainable. But, what does it take to keep a horse at home?
To begin with, you need to consider where you would keep the horse. Do you have an old barn? Is it suited for horses? What about space for the horse to graze?
Older barns can often be converted into horse-suitable buildings. While dairy stanchions are not safe for horses, many barns have an open floor plan or pre-built stalls. Stalls should be large enough for a horse to easily turn around in, about 10'x10' for the average horse. Barn ceilings should be at least 8' high. Some barns are more easily converted into run-in sheds which can be left open to the paddock or closed by a gate to keep the horses in.
If you do not have a barn, you will need to build a shelter. This can range from a simple two or three sided run-in shelter to a mini barn with stalls for the horses, space for keeping equipment, and a lockable room for storing feed.
When selecting grazing land, you should consider that the horse will need access to water at all times. While a stream or a pond might seem like a good idea, horses quickly damage the banks and muddy the drinking water. When winter comes natural water sources freeze and can't be used.
The best solution is to place a water trough where it can easily be reached by a hose. Relatively inexpensive, a trough combined with an electrical trough heater will keep the water drinkable all year long. Adding a few feeder goldfish will keep the mosquito population under control, reducing the risk of West Nile.
Unless you intend to supplement with hay, each horse requires an average of 2 acres of grazing land. Because horses can be very hard on the paddocks, the grazing space should be separated into two areas that can be rotated to allow the grass to recover.
If your farm is already fenced it is essential to check the perimeter of the grazing space for places where the fencing needs repair. Barbed wire is never recommended for horses. Metal "T" posts are dangerous, and should have plastic caps added to avoid injury. Page wire is safe enough, but is best with a top rail or an electric wire to prevent the horses from reaching over it. Split rail fencing can be used, but most old-style split rail fences are not tall enough or solid enough to deter a horse from escaping.
When choosing new fencing, take time to consider the variety of horse safe fencing materials available. While some are more expensive, they often outlast the cheaper alternatives. A fence for horses should be at least 4' high.
Over the summer months horses can often manage on grass alone. However, once the grass thins it is important to add hay. Hay can be purchased in many types of bales. Round bales are ideal for feeding in the pasture, but are hard to move without a tractor. Large square bales are also difficult to move, but can have flakes peeled off and fed individually. Small square bales also come in flakes and are easy to manage.
Hay should be stored indoors, whether in the barn or in a shelter. Small square bales mold easily when allowed to get wet. Large round bales can be stored outside if necessary, but the outer layers will be spoiled.
Some horses need additional feed to maintain their weight. Grain for horses can be purchased at the local feed mill by the bag. To store grain you should keep it indoors, out of the reach of horses. If a horse gets into a bag of grain it can become very sick and need medical attention.
Not all hay or grain is suited to horses and could cause health issues. Be sure to specify it is for horses when purchasing feed. Horses should never be fed moldy hay.
When planning storage, be sure to leave space to store bedding. The most common types of bedding are shavings, which can be bought in bags or in bulk and straw, which is sold in bales.
Stalls should be cleaned daily and run-in shelters should be cleaned at least once a week. Manure needs to be stored in a place where it will not contaminate any water sources.
Like any other pet, horses require regular veterinary care. Annual vaccinations such as Rabies, Tetanus and the West Nile are due in the spring. The vet should also check the horse's teeth once a year to file away any sharp points that prevent the horse from eating properly. Quarterly worming will keep the horse parasite-free.
Additionally, the horse will require attention from the farrier every six to eight weeks. If the feet are left too long they will crack or overgrow and the horse will become lame. Some horses require shoes, but most are quite happy when left barefoot.
Horses are herd animals. While some horses will manage when kept alone, most prefer to have some form of companionship. A second horse, pony or miniature is ideal, but horses will often accept other animals such as donkeys or goats. Another idea is to keep a friend's horse at your farm, sharing both expenses and responsibilities for the animals.
Perhaps the most important part about having a horse at home is the time you spend with it. Horses are social animals and very much enjoy the attention we humans give them. Taking the time to groom your horse several times a week develops a bond that not only is enjoyable, but also makes the horse a safer, more reliable animal to be around.
Having a horse at home is a lot of work. Between feeding, cleaning stalls and grooming, most horse owners spend at least an hour a day at the barn. The horse relies on its owner 365 days a year. It does not understand the difference between a holiday and any other day of the week.
But, having a horse at home is also rewarding. There is nothing quite like the sound of hooves galloping to the gate to arrive on time for afternoon feed. Morning coffee is far more enjoyable when savored while watching the horses play in the field. And when life gets you down, nothing is as relaxing as spending an hour brushing your horse.
Horse keeping is not for everyone, but neither is it beyond the ability of the average person. Ask many questions and take the time to plan and perhaps you too can have a horse at home.
Top 3 Reasons to Use a Self Cleaning Cat Litter Box
By A. J. Lowery
Maybe you have heard of a self cleaning cat litter box but have wondered if they are effective or just a bunch of hype. In reality, these litter boxes have many advantages over traditional litter pans. They can keep your environment healthier and save time too. If you have ever wondered about these litter loving gadgets, here are the top three reasons to consider getting one for your pet.
Reason #3 - It's Healthier
Most models of self cleaning litter boxes clean the pan around the clock automatically. This constant cleaning makes it less likely that unhealthy bacteria will develop in the pan. In ordinary cat boxes, the bacteria can grow and get on kitty's paws and then be tracked through the house. That is not healthy for pet or owner. While keeping the litter box clean is your best defense, unless you are home all of the time, it's next to impossible to keep the pan waste free. A robotic litter box is an ideal solution and healthier for pet and owner alike.
Reason #2 - It's Less Stinky
Let's face it, a litter box can become ripe with odor rather quickly, especially in hot or humid weather. These foul odors are unpleasant for humans and may even discourage kitty from using the box. The continuous maintenance and scooping that a self cleaning cat box provides makes a significant impact on odor control. Most models scoop waste in to a sealed unit, trapping the odor and keeping the actual pan smelling fresh. For people who work long hours or take short weekend trips, you can look froward to coming home to a house that doesn't smell like a used litter box.
Reason #1 - It's a Huge Time Saver
Who likes to scoop the litter box anyways? Not I and not anyone else in my household. If the chore of cleaning up after kitty sends everyone running in the other direction, a self cleaning litter box may just change that. Most models require occasional maintenance which consists of emptying the waste pan and nothing more. Where as scooping can take time and needs to be done daily if you have multiple cats, cleaning an automatic cat box is fast and simple. So quick and easy in fact that you may just find that others are more willing volunteer for the chore.
No matter what reason you find most compelling, investing in a self cleaning litter box for your pet can make a dramatic difference in your home. This is one of those devices that will have you wondering how you ever managed without it.
If you would like help choosing the right automatic cat box for you and your kitty's, be sure to check out my site for a number of litter box reviews. On my site you will find feedback from other cat owners on the variety of self cleaning cat boxes on the market and learn which ones work best and which ones are better avoided.
The author is the editor of http://www.selfcleaninglitterboxes.net
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=A._J._Lowery
Dogs Obedience Training - The 5 Basic Commands
By Adrian Van Drunen
There are many commands that can be used in your dogs obedience training, here you will find listed the basic commands and how to train your dog to do them.
• Sit - This is the first and most basic command to teach you dog. Start by gently pushing you dogs back end down and saying the word sit. They will catch on eventually to what you want.
• Down - This is the second command we want to tackle. Use this command to keep excitable dogs from jumping up on people. To train this command to your dog tell them down when them begin jumping up, do not act excited when they jump on you and if needed, physically place their legs on the ground.
• Stay - Next is the stay command. Placing a treat on the ground and as he moves ahead command "Stay", you can put your hand up as you say this. Move farther away as they start to obey.
• Come - This follows the stay command. Your dogs will need a command to know when it is ok to come to you. When commanding come it help to change the tone of your voice and put a little excitement into your voice as well. It may help to pat your leg in the beginning; they'll pick it up soon enough.
• Stand - This is the last of the basic commands. Pat your hands on your chest and with some excitement in your voice command stand. He'll begin to know the difference of when he is allowed and when he is not.
Your dog's obedience training should commence as soon as you and you dog are ready. Consistency is important when training, have fun and you will be rewarded with a happy, obedient companion.
For more information on Obedience Training, or to find more information on Dog Behaviour visit The Obedient K-9.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Adrian_Van_Drunen
The 5 Most Important Dog Survival Tips
by Jim German
You love your dog, but do you know what the most important tips are to help your dog survive the next disaster or emergency? You will after you read these important tips.
1) Identification: Get your dog microchiped. These are about the size of a grain of rice and are implanted by your veterinarian just under the skin at the back of their neck with little or no pain. When scanned by a chip reader, your name and contact information is displayed and you get your dog back. These chips can be implanted in a large variety of pets including horses. Additionally, make sure your dog's vaccinations and license is up to date and tags are in place. You may be required to leave your dog at a shelter and you'll be glad you did these items.
2) Get a "Kennel/crate" or small animal carrier. These will help keep your dog safe and calm. Advance "crate training" can be very helpful to put your pet at ease. Emergencies often create stressful situations for pets and can cause unusual behavior. If you have to evacuate, you don't want to waste valuable time trying to round up your scared dog, so do this well in advance. Controlling your dog is essential to it's safety. You should have an appropriate "muzzle" device just in case, as well as a sturdy collar and leash.
3) Be as calm as possible yourself. Our pets are keenly attuned to us and react strongly to stress that you exhibit. Additionally, bright lights, sounds, other animals and smells will agitate your dog. The "fight or flight" self preservation mechanism will be very strong. Dogs are "pack animals" and look to their pack leader, the Alpha Dog, for guidance (that's you). Show your dog strength and resolve.
4) The more prepared you are in advance, the less stressful the emergency situation will become. Think out your plan in advance; starting NOW. Gather your survival items or purchase a pre-assembled 72 hour emergency survival kit for yourself and loved ones. During "fire season" or hurricane season" keep your car's fuel tank a little fuller than normal just in case you need to evacuate the area. Large scale evacuations from hurricanes or wildfires have resulted in traffic delays of several hours. You may not be able to return for weeks.
5) Assemble or purchase a dog survival kit. These should include food, water, and bowls; first aid items; dog toys; waste clean-up items; and a strong leash and collar. These are minimum requirements and you likely will want to add other items as well as any medications your dog requires. Your vet's phone number is another reassuring thing to have in your dog's survival kit.
Now you know the tips to keep your dog safe and have it survive the next emergency disaster!
About the Author
Jim German resides in Evergreen, Colorado with his wife Sarah and their dogs and horses. He is a Lieutenant on the Elk Creek Fire Department and a nationally registered Emergency Medical Technician. He is America's Urban and Rural Emergency Survival Expert holding many state certifications. For additional information visit http://www.SurviveAndLive.com or for survival kits and equipment.
Parrot Training for Dummies. How To Remove The Fear. A Simple Technique That Will Have Your Parrot Begging You to Pet and Cuddle Him.
by Lee Page
Hello fellow Parrot lovers. I discovered a parrot training technique at home recently that I just had to share with you all.
You see, my girlfriend got this beautiful little cockatiel a few months back. She was hoping for a nice chirpy little friend to sit and play with of an evening.
All did not go according to plan. The little bird, now known as Mali, would just go crazy, squawking, screaming and lashing out if my girlfriend ever dared put her hands in the cage or tried to handle him. It was quite a show. The idea of sitting together all cozy-like with her new feathery friend soon went up in smoke.
She was upset, scared and didn't know what to do. I suppose I didn't help the situation much calling him "Mali the Terrible" all the time. In my defense he was a little git (or so I thought).
So, feeling a little guilty, I started searching around for something that would help them both to get on better. And I found some parrot training ideas that were very different to everything else out there. The ideas where all based on using the birds own instinct, nothing about needing an intelligent bird or getting them at an early age. It didn't matter how dumb or old they were, it would work.
I had nothing to lose so gave my girlfriend the techniques and she started straight away.
I noticed the improvement almost immediately. It was pretty amazing; within mere days they became the best of friends. The little fellow would sit calm as day on her hand, just begging to be pet.
She taught him to mimic and whistle songs and sounds; they genuinely had a damn great time together. I was so impressed with some of the things I saw her doing I had to share something; A parrot training technique that is incredibly easy but very effective.
A way to convince your parrot to willingly overcome his fears of you... ...through instinct.
It doesn't matter how nice you are, even if you've always treated him VERY nice, it makes no difference (as you're probably all to aware). If you want to train your parrot to willingly step up when you want, or let you pet him, you're going to want to use this amazing strategy. A strategy that is powerful enough to convince your parrot to come to you when you offer a command, instead of you always forcing your parrot to do things.
You'll need a way to make him willing to overcome his own fear, on his own FREE will. key phrase "his FREE Will"... NOT yours ;-)
You see, when my girlfriend started training Mali, she really wanted him to like being pet and to show affection with 100% devotion.
Because, as I said, every time she tried to reach in his cage and get him to step up, he'd lose it. And if she pressed the matter she got nipped. So, this was a technique she had to try straight away. What she first discovered is that Mali is, like most parrots are, scared to death of their owners. And that's why all parrots bite, out of fear and mistrust, not because they are aggressive.
So she started this using technique, a way convince Mali himself to walk over and step on her hand (away from the cage) on his own. Instead of her chasing him around causing him (and her) stress.
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The Very First Step
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The first important thing to understand is the thinking process your bird will be going through during any parrot training and how to take advantage of that process.
Getting your parrot to tolerate you is one thing, but getting a parrot that likes you petting him, or will step up for you is a WHOLE other ballgame.
Remember, your parrot is fearful of you... The second you try to reach for his feet to pick him up, or start scratching behind his head is probably going to get you nipped or bitten very quickly... and any trust you have built up will be destroyed.
So how did my girlfriend and her bird bridge this gap?
She had to convince the parrot to come to her on his own -- and that means you can't force ANYTHING! Period! She did this by using a neat little reward system, meaning we need to give your parrot a reward that is MORE important and enticing than his fear of being touched by you. And to offer that treat as a reward for your parrot when he starts to come closer to you.
STOP! You have to do something else first. Start the parrot on a diet (well not a diet as such, but you will see what I mean shortly).
You see, most parrot owners leave food in their bird's cage all day long and your parrot can eat all he wants whenever he wants.
This is a big mistake we learned the hard way of course. Logically, when you think about it; say you've got a parrot who's been stuffing his face all day long, and then you try to offer him a treat as a reward for coming to you on his own free will...
...Not a lot is going to happen, since he's only got to hop down to his food bowl for his own treats.
So the trick was all in setting up a special parrot training diet for the Parrot that gives him all the nutrients and calories he needs to stay in good health, while also getting him hungry two to three times a day.
And it was this process of getting the bird a tad hungry that gave him the motivation to be willing to step out of his comfort zone a little bit to earn a treat. Don't think this is food deprivation... and DON'T try food deprivation.
If you deprive a bird of its food you will get an unwanted effect; it will start to associate it's deep hunger pains with training. Because every time it's super hungry it has to train. And you will get nowhere fast.
So make sure to follow the instructions below carefully, and remember that your goal is to only create a mild level of hunger twice a day to be used as a technique to make a food reward extra motivating.
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Here's How To Set Up Your Birds training Diet:
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To start off with, we switched Mali over to a low sugar, organic pelleted diet.
We found out (again the hard way) all those seed, and nut mixes out on the market are complete crap, and provide WAY too much fat for your birds diet.
These high seed and nut mix diets are a MAJOR cause of the increase in avian tumors and shortened lifespans, as well as organ failure in pet birds.
Once you order the food, here's how to set up your parrot's feeding schedule;
1. First of all, establish how much food your parrot eats in a day. Do this by purchasing a scale and weighing your bird's food for the day.Let's use round numbers to make this easy to understand, but keep in mind that all birds will vary drastically in their daily food consumption.
Now, make sure that the amount of food that you are weighing is more food than you know your parrot could eat in a day.
2. Put that amount of food, let's say it was 30 grams, in your bird's cage right before you go to bed. Then, wait until right before you go to bed the next night, (a 24 hour period) to take the food out of your bird's cage, and weigh the amount of food left in your bird's food dish.
3. After a complete day of food being in your bird's cage, let's say your bird's food, weighed 16 grams. This means that your bird ate 14 grams of food in a 24 hour period. Keep in mind that you will want to do this process for 2-3 more days to get a really good feel for the amount of food your bird eats on a daily average. Make sure you keep a record of your birds food consumption
4. Everything is done in very small steps with small bird and parrot training, and this first step is the same. You now know that your bird eats 14 grams of food a day. So you now are going to only feed your bird 12 grams of food before you go to bed. But We Will Not Starve The Bird, That is Not The Lesson Here!
5.After you feed your bird 12 grams of food the next evening, you are going to feed it the other 2 grams of food that you took out of his diet, in the form of his favorite treats; usually sunflower seeds, dried banana chips or peanuts.
6.Do this by weighing out 2 grams of your bird's favorite treat, let's say, sunflower seeds. Take the bird out of his cage, and feed your bird his special treats by hand.
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Problems You May Encounter:
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A. If your bird won't eat the treats, he could be afraid of the hand that is feeding him the seeds. In which case spend time calming down your bird, and try feeding him again, or....
B. Your bird is not hungry and has been overeating even after you cut his food down to 8 grams. This is not unusual because people usually over-feed their parrots. Don't despair, just simply stop feeding your bird the treats, and when you fill up his food bowl for the night, only give him 7 grams of food, a gram less than the night before.
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Try This Over The Next Few Days
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1. Establish a training diet that for your parrot so that your bird will eat treats out of your hand at night when he is hungry.
2. Keep in mind that this is not cruel in any way. You will still be feeding the bird the same amount of food in a day. It's just breaking it up into meals. This will be the foundation for motivating your parrot. (Do you class making your partner or children wait for dinner time as starving them? I don't think so)
Getting this training diet set up changed my girlfriends relationship in ways I could never imagine. Your bird will start wanting to cuddle with you, bury his head in your finger tips begging for pets, or cuddling in the folds of your clothes while you sit in your favorite chair. All it takes is to bridge the gap between you and your parrot, so you can start to reward him for overcoming his fears.
About the Author
If you want to learn hundreds of these unique tips and training techniques in extreme detail, for any kind of parrot or bird, take a look at the information I got my girlfriend here Bird Tricks. There are some excellent free parrot training videos there you must claim.
Thanks to Sharon from Bhc, Az
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